There’s something so fundamental about the river Thames. It is, after all, the very artery and lungs, the very reason for the being, of London. An hour west and her width reminded me of her status, though here between the county borders of Berkshire and Oxfordshire, the boats are for pleasure not trade, the pace tranquil not frenzied. A still, calming, serene stretch of water where I could reflect in its many reflections.
Here at The Swan at Streatley, it’s all about the positioning. Set in quintessential English countryside, near Reading and Oxford, it straddles the two picturesque villages of Streatley and Goring. Previously owned by British performer Danny La Rue it’s close to Mill Cottage, once owned by George Michael and still visited by his fans.
Coppa Club, of which The Swan is one of the brands, has a mantra of being “all things to all people” where one is encouraged to “stay all day”. It’s a wonderful riverside hotel, a multi-purpose all-day collection of a restaurant, events rooms, a bar, and many spots where people gather. There are balconies, terraces, slipstreams water meadows, and well-kept lawns. Across the many acres, the space is brilliantly utilized. Otters have their own sanctuary on an island but come to fish and feed in the hotel’s slipstream.
It’s countryside chic. Perfect for weekends away, for parties, events, meetings, and weddings. Starting with the small front desk of a reception with its leather chairs the décor is casual and relaxing, cool and contemporary. Of all the many nooks and crannies, my favorite was the former boathouse with its high ceiling and exposed beams.
There’s an eclectic array of different sections of open-planned spaces, cleverly partitioned by bookshelves and striped diagonal wooden flooring. It utilizes the views as one room leads into the next and throughout there are areas for working, eating, reading, and chatting. It had a fresh feel and was chic and cozy.
Of the 47 rooms (that start from $140 per night) in ascending order of grandeur, there are medium and large doubles: some with balconies and all with glorious river views. The Biggy River Suites each come with their own balcony and, as for others, you can step straight out onto your own private lawn beside the river. Mine (number 37) felt like a miniature barn with its contemporary signature textile chairs and wooden headboards, its neutral colors, and its uber-cool simplicity. The rooms have retro touches with dial phones and Roberts radios and are named after the birds on view: the heron, the kingfisher, and the swans. My bathroom had a rain shower, and metro tiles, and offered Natural Spa Factory products.
Outside, The Lobster Bar comes as two summertime canopied outlets purple-lit by night: one a riverside bar, done in partnership with the English sparkling wine Nyetimber, whose electric heaters spill out over neatly-mown grass and the clipped topiary, the other offering a barbecue with grilled lobster, prawns and burgers. It has a classy festival vibe and, facing partly west, it’s perfect for sundowners with its benches and deckchairs from which to watch boaties moor up for a snack.
As for the Coppa Club restaurant what fair pricing, what generous helpings, and what a broad menu of European dishes with fresh ingredients typically sourced locally? It’s wonderfully spacious with its river terrace right on the water and magically lit by night. The organic colors of the wood and rattan seats and lampshades and the overall green touches echoed the grass and foliage outside. It was very harmonious, light, spacious and airy. There were fresh flowers on the table and walls of plants exuding health. I almost felt on a boat with the glass windows and decking beyond drawing all my senses and attention outwards. Boats were indeed bobbing, parked along the waterway, in a current with a breeze tickling the leaves of the many trees. It was all very sensual and made me present and mindful.
The hotel places a great emphasis on offering things to do. There’s a gym, a sauna, and a steam room, a “Grace and Gravity Yoga Studio”. There’s an outdoor cinema, guests go paddleboarding, wild swimming, or take a boat trip and dogs are welcome in many parts.
I loved best simply following the water and going along the Thames Path, a towpath walk that took me through breezy meadows and past rowers and pleasure boats. All very reminiscent of “Three Men in a Boat”. By the end of my stay, I was fully engaged with river life.
